![]() It makes me laugh because it also reminds me of Mr. I wasn't sure how I felt about the zinc plated "gold" chain, but I ended up liking how the gold and silver of the anvil play together, kinda pops and makes me imagine dwarves mining and forging precious metals deep below some mountain somewhere. I didn't put much thought into the finished look (as in I got lazy and just wanted to get it operational), I just used the black paint I had on hand. Had a huge goof up in fabrication and ended up at 34-1/32".oops. Maybe my next stand will be a tri-pod to compare.ĭesigned the face height to be 34". The design maintains the benefit of a triangulated 3-feet footprint which keeps it ultra stable and the extra width of the feet really add an extra dimension of stability. With a coat of black engine enamel I had laying around the stand is finally finished and a happy anvil is ready to roar to life in it's new home: Designing and cutting took a few weeks, welding less than a day.Ĭaulk laid down on base and 3/8" chain with 1/2" hex bolts used to pinch down: It all started comically as this chalk board insanity (feel free to laugh, it's absurd):Īfter getting the material home it was a lot of cutting and grinding to get the pieces to fit.įinally they were ready for dry-fitting and all cavities were filled with sand to add an extra 150# in weight. Ended up with 1" base plate, 6"/8" round tubes for legs, 8"圆"/8"x4" square tube for supports, and 1/2" plate for the feet.Īfter having so much larger stock available the design could change. Previously this design was not possible as I only had access to 4" tube, so I owe an immense thank you to Haley at the ACC shop for allowing me access to some hefty scrap material. The final design took on somewhat of a hybrid of the 3-footed tripod and the T-stand, but I can't take credit for this design, it was a shameless rip-off from examples at the school. ![]() I wanted to share a grateful update on what I finally ended up fabricating and how it went. You CAN tip the Soderfors over if you try but the Trenton will slide before it tips even on asphalt. I have no idea what the angle is and it's only close to the same on the other tripod. Why mention driller? Drills in the field REQUIRE a lot of welding or pieces fall on you. for this old retired: welder, fabricator, driller operator. Tack welded the legs to the frame and double checked for the correct height a bit lower than I'd like but good enough and welded it up. Move the tubing up clamp RrrRrrRrr go back to fitting the frame to the anvil foot. Cut the first angle on the end of the stick, move it up to the stop clamp, turn it on RrrRrrRrr and I go off to work on the angle iron frame until CLANG. The real tricky part was getting the height right without using any of that icky math so I used my framing square to mark the next cut position and set the stop. Then I cut a piece of cardboard for a template to angle the vise on my cutoff band saw. I've made two tripod anvil stands and drew them on graph paper to determine the base of support and the footprint I liked. The angle isn't important so long as the feet are outside the necessary base of support, Thomas described a easy non mathematical method of determining. I would enjoy hearing what others have to say on the matter of leg placement, degrees from vertical, clearance issues, structural integrity, and the like. The single top-down photo of the tri-pod is of the 11/15 combo.ĭiscovering this "best" angle led me to wondering why not go with a simple T-stand? Though again, the placement of the feet becomes a concern so as to prevent tipping and the T-stand raises concerns about stress fractures given a single 4" tube as the connection point (here I am assuming A36 4"x3/8" round tube and 4"x3/8" sq. On a tri-pod, what is an acceptable angle for the legs to ensure stability? Here I have mocked up 3 examples showing different angles (from vertical) on the legs, using 11 degrees, 15 degrees, or a combination of 11/15. I included top-down photos of each proposed stand to get an idea of where the legs rest in relation to the anvil. Regardless of the type, the question of leg placement becomes important. In my mind the simple T-stand is easier in the design, cutting and fabrication and offers less obstruction. I am questioning the benefit of a 3-legged metal stand vs. I like to get my thoughts and measurements down in a simple CAD drawing before fab so attached are a number of photos to get my point across. I could use some thoughts/advice/experience surrounding the suggested angle on legs placed on a 3-legged metal anvil stand.
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